Full System Exhaust Instructions

Removal

1. Remove the Spring at the top rear of the Silencer.  (See Figure #1)

2. Loosen the Clamp at the Silencer-to-Head Pipe Joint.  

3. Place some protective tape on the frame in the area of the Silencer.  (Below the Silencer and to the side of it.)  This will prevent the frame from getting scratched.

4. Pull the Silencer back and rotate counter-clockwise to the 11 O’clock position, using the Spring Tab for your reference.(See Figure #2)

5. Rotate the silencer counter clockwise (using the spring tab) to the 6 oclock position and remove it from the vehicle.(See Figure #3)

5. Remove the 4 Head Pipe-to-Cylinder Nuts.  2 Nuts per Cylinder 

6. Remove the head pipe.

Installation

1. The larger end of the Spigots goes into the cylinder head Ports.  Reuse or Replace stock head exhaust gaskets.

2. Slide the Flanges over the Spigots and place both assemblies into the exhaust ports.  Start the nuts and washers to keep the assemblies in place, but do not tighten the nuts.

3. Slide the HMF Head Pipe over the Spigots and install the Springs.

4. Slide the Clamp onto the HMF Inlet tube of the silencer.  

5. Slide the HMF Silencer onto the HMF Head Pipe.  

6. Use the supplied hardware to bolt the silencer to the frame.

Notes from Installation:

*The Outlaw we tested had a rich, 37.5 pilot jet.  The highest smoothest idle was with the fuel screw at 1 1/2 turns out.

*We went to a leaner 35 pilot.  This gave us a 2 1/2 turn out fuel setting which also made better low end power.

*5 winds were cut off the Slide Spring.  The Slide Equalizer holes were drilled out but this did not make any difference in power or acceleration.

*A 145 main jet was stock, a 155 was tried but made no difference in power.

*Needle clip position changes did not make any difference in power. The stock needle clip position was used.

*The air box lid was left on in all tests.